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颜如玉编辑台· Rachael Akhidenor·· 5 小时前精选AI 评分78

透视、蕾丝与内衣外穿:GLP-1 时代真的在改变穿衣吗,数据机构说尚无直线相关

Sheer Looks to Lingerie: Are GLP-1s Changing the Way We Dress?

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Vogue Business 10 月 19 日的分析把 2027 春夏秀场的透视、蕾丝、内衣外穿与文胸式上衣回潮,放到 GLP-1 减重药普及的背景下检验。背景数字是:摩根士丹利估算 GLP-1 销售额 2025 年达 790 亿美元、预计 2035 年达 1,900 亿美元;消费品论坛与贝恩 2026 年 6 月报告预测,到 2030 年三分之一美国人与八分之一英国人将使用这类药物。但多位分析师对因果关系明确保留:趋势分析公司 Heuritech 的 Frida Tordhag 直言,从其数据看不到 GLP-1 上升与秀场趋势之间的直线相关;零售情报平台 EDITED 的 Krista Corrigan 也称很难把趋势精确归因。数据真正显示变化的是服装功能:WGSN 的 Laura Yiannakou 指出,约 40% 使用减重药的消费者因体温波动、皮肤敏感与腹胀等副作用而优先考虑舒适度;EDITED 数据显示,2026 年 5 月可调节腰围下装的新品到货量环比翻倍以上、系带下装同比增 50%。轮廓数据同样不支持「越瘦越紧身」的简单叙事:Heuritech 称紧身连衣裙到货量欧洲同比降 8%、美国降 6%,修身长裤欧洲降 25%、中国降 21%、美国降 20%;反而宽松透视上衣在美国增 30%,迷你梯形裙轮廓在中国增 31%、欧洲增 15%,柱形连衣裙在连衣裙市场的份额近乎翻倍。蕾丝在各市场明显升温:细蕾丝中国增 41%、欧洲增 19%,蕾丝连衣裙中国增 49%、欧洲增 37%、美国增 19%,蕾丝边吊带欧洲与美国均增 42%、中国增 59%。巴黎个人买手 Isabel Bazzani 称,高定屋在更新多年客户档案、因为在档尺寸已对不上,大码供给变少、小码产量变多——这只是从业者观察,不是统计结论。原文还给出反例:以尺码包容著称的 Ester Manas 本季与内衣品牌 Primadonna 合作透视紧身衣,Di Petsa 的大量露肤设计同样建立在多元身材之上,说明露肤与紧身并不专属于某一种身材。证据限制必须写明:本文是趋势与零售到货数据的行业分析,各机构口径不一、分析师一致认为相关性无法确证,不能把秀场趋势写成 GLP-1 的疗效或直接后果;文中药物数字为市场估算与预测,不是临床证据。署名:颜如玉编辑台。

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October 19, 2026

Image may contain Adult Person Clothing Swimwear Fashion Dress Accessories Jewelry Necklace Face and Head

Photos: Vogue Runway

Bullet bras and high-cut briefs at Tom Ford. Corsets and garter skirts at Balmain. Skirts-as-belts at Ashlyn. And sheer organza on almost every runway. These are just some of the lingerie-inspired, transparent or cinched pieces that flooded show collections this Spring/Summer 2027 season. But beyond the cyclical nature of sex appeal and its revolving role within fashion, this surge of skin brings something deeper into focus at a time plagued by shrinking bodies: the relationship between GLP-1s and the runway.

The conversation around weight loss medications such as GLP-1s can, at times, feel ubiquitous. GLP-1 sales hit $79 billion in 2025, per Morgan Stanley Research, and the global market is projected to reach $190 billion by 2035. A June 2026 report from the Consumer Goods Forum and Bain & Co. forecasts the use of GLP-1s to reach one in three Americans and one in eight Britons by 2030.

Against this backdrop, it is increasingly difficult not to see fashion trends through this lens. The visibility of skin, so-called “naked dressing”, bralettes, and contorting designs on the runway raise questions around correlation and causation. Are these trends in direct conversation with the rise in weight loss medications, as luxury customers strive to show off their new bodies? Or are they mere coincidence, made more visible by the current climate?

Image may contain Clothing Dress Fashion Adult Person Formal Wear and Evening Dress

Giorgio Armani SS27.

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

The shrinking of client bodies is clear, especially at the high fashion level, according to Paris-based fashion sourcer and luxury personal shopper Isabel Bazzani. “Couture houses have told me they’ve had to update client books they’ve held for years, because the body measurements on file no longer match,” she says. “Production is following suit, with larger sizes from luxury houses becoming more limited and smaller sizes being made in higher quantities.”

“Fashion is always a reflection of everything from cultural shifts to what’s going on in society, body ideals, attitudes toward the body, and how people choose to dress,” says Frida Tordhag, fashion analyst at trend analytics firm Heuritech. “It’s hard to generalize it. These body trends [have] always gone in waves, and we have seen more that women are using GLP-1s, so they might [dress] differently.”

For Tordhag, the relationship is tenuous. “From our perspective and from the data we have, we cannot see a straight correlation between [the rise of GLP-1s and runway trends],” she flags.

For others, it’s more nuanced. “We’re still [as a team] going through all the trends and trying to decode how this is playing out,” Krista Corrigan, senior retail analyst at retail intelligence platform EDITED, notes. She adds that confirming these correlations can be particularly tricky, though. “What could be a result of GLP-1s? Some of [these trends], of course. But we’re making an insinuation, because it’s difficult to exactly tie it back.”

Even so, she sees signs of their influence. “We definitely saw a couple of things that indicate to me the influence of GLP-1 and Ozempic showing up on the runway.”

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High-cut swimsuits at Tom Ford SS27.

Photo: Courtesy of Tom Ford

Design that flexes with the body

One way this shift can present itself is through functional design. “While the headline narrative around GLP-1s usually centers on revealing, skin-baring fashion and bodycon fits, the real revolution is happening in how garments function,” Laura Yiannakou, womenswear senior strategist at trend forecaster WGSN, explains. “Around 40% of consumers [who use weight loss medications] prioritize comfort, as they navigate drug-induced side effects like temperature shifts, skin sensitivity, and extreme bloating.”

This includes design details that allow for adjustability, such as the crossed lacing at Miu Miu, zippers on skirts at Lemaire, and elastic hems at CFCL. “It’s why belts are having such a moment — not just as stylish accessories, but as essential tools for creating an instant, customizable shape,” Yiannakou adds. This was visible across runways: belts were supersized at Celine, they created cinched peplum waists at Valentino, and dramatically secured trench coats at Acne Studios.

Corrigan points to belts and cinched-waist outerwear as SS27 trends that offer both adaptability for size fluctuation and the accentuation of smaller proportions. Demand for functionality is visible across retail data: arrivals of bottoms with adjustable waistbands more than doubled month-on-month in May 2026, while arrivals of belted bottoms were up 50% year-on-year, per EDITED. On the runway, self-tie fabric belts featured on wide-leg pants at Max Mara and adjustable Velcro fastenings secured skirts at Prada.

Image may contain Blouse Clothing Coat Jacket Blazer Pants Adult Person Accessories Sunglasses Face and Head

Bra tops backstage at Balmain SS27.

Photo: Acielle / Style Du Monde

Fabrics that support breathability and ease are also gaining traction. “We’re witnessing a movement toward what we call ‘rebound’ textiles, and fluid silhouettes,” says Yiannakou. This was present in the tempo pleats at Issey Miyake, or the wave-inspired silhouettes at Stella McCartney. Knits and yarn blends, like those at CFCL, erred on the side of practical. “To handle changing body proportions, designers are turning to high-recovery knits like Milano rib, bi-stretch wool blends, and heat-set pleats that offer structural integrity with reliable give and snap-back quality.”

It’s in the silhouettes, too. Column dresses were fluid at Alberta Ferretti, with cutouts at Christopher Esber, and elongated takes at Fendi. The closing look at Ferragamo, worn by Anok Yai, saw the silhouette expressed in an embellished fashion — high-necked, with black and metallic paillettes reflecting light. Per WGSN retail data, the column silhouette has nearly doubled in dress market share, signaling demand for shapes that sit on the body with ease.

Tordhag has also observed strong demand for voluminous silhouettes. “Everything from sorrel pants to drape dresses, fringe dresses and feathers are up,” she says. The mini trapeze dress was a strong feature across SS27 runways, from Loewe to Miu Miu and Ganni, while Heuritech data shows the silhouette increased by 31% year-on-year in China and 15% in Europe.

A new way to show off the body

The change in silhouette and fabrication doesn’t mean the body is more concealed, though. Rather, it reflects an evolution in how the body is shown.

“When we look at our data, what’s interesting is that we’re not seeing a straightforward shift towards tighter clothing,” says Tordhag. “We would expect bodycon or slim silhouettes to rise, but both in the US and Europe, they’re actually falling.” Bodycon dress arrivals are down 8% year-on-year in Europe, and 6% in the US, while slim pants are down 25% in Europe, 21% in China, and 20% in the US, per Heuritch data.

And across the SS27 runways, it wasn't about second-skin. The body was laid bare, via dramatic cutouts, lingerie, transparent and transluscent garments, to accentuate the form. Sometimes, it was overt, like at Gucci or Tom Ford. Others, it was more nuanced, via romantic cutouts at Chloé and delicate sheer pastels at Dior and Chanel. Tordhag describes this as a new form of sexiness: “We see that the female body is being almost soft-launched in the fabric or in the shape.”

Image may contain Adult Person Clothing Skirt Underwear Swimwear Fashion Footwear Sandal Miniskirt and Lingerie

More bra tops at Jean Paul Gaultier SS27.

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

One interesting expression of this trend is the convergence of volume and transparency. In-store arrivals of see-through loose tops are up 30% in the US, per Heuritech. Tordhag notes SS27 collections from Alberta Ferretti, Bluemarine and The Attico that explore this interplay between lace, lingerie features and transparency across voluminous silhouettes.

More broadly, sheer and soft fabrics are on the rise. Fine lace is up 41% in China and 19% in Europe, with dresses in this fabrication specifically up 49% in China, 37% in Europe and 19% in the US, per Heuritech. In-store visibility of chiffon and satin dresses is also increasing, as “naked dressing” pushes away from fishnet and mesh — both of which are in decline, according to Heuritech — and pulls toward a softer expression.

Personal shopper Bazzani has also noticed this shift. This season’s Saint Laurent silicone-lace designs, as well as sheer dresses, tops and skirts from Chanel, and Hermès’s undergarment-revealing pieces are highly requested by her clientele.

Lingerie as occasionwear was also a headlining theme this season, with Heuritech data reflecting its prevalence. Lace-trimmed camisoles are up 42% year-on-year in Europe and the US, and 59% in China. Tops with lace-detail have also increased by 56% in Europe, 43% in the US, and 59% in China, while lace shorts are up 50% in the US.

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Lingerie-inspired dressing at Khaite SS27.

Photo: Hanna Tveite / Courtesy of Khaite

Bra tops were visible across the majority of runways, too. They were a fixture at Prada, cone-shaped at Jean Paul Gaultier, and fashioned from leather and silk scarves at Tod’s and Hermès, respectively. They were bandeau in style at Stella McCartney and Mugler, and styled over dresses and tops at Miu Miu and Marni.

It’s hard not to draw correlations between the bra’s ubiquity on the runway and the rise of GLP-1s. With bras replacing tops, the body is increasingly visible. It puts abdomens, waists and arms in focus, drawing attention to the wearer’s figure. One insinuation is that those taking weight loss medications may want to show off their newly trimmed frames, especially at a time when thinness is so present in the cultural conversation.

Still, the suggestion that the rise of lingerie details and sheer fabrics is in direct response to GLP-1s could be misguided. Belgium-based inclusive womenswear brand Ester Manas offers a case in point. Manas, known for radical size inclusivity, showed a SS27 collection made in partnership with Belgian underwear brand Primadonna, featuring sheer bodysuits and architectural bustiers.

The same can be said of Di Petsa’s latest collection shown at London Fashion Week. While there was plenty of skin on display — transparent dresses, breasts covered merely by jewelry or a model’s hand, and plunging necklines — the brand is deeply rooted in inclusivity. Season after season, diversity has remained central to its runway, and this season was no different.

“For me, it’s about showing the garments in the best way possible,” says Greek designer Dimitra Petsa. “Through size diversity, you can show different designs. I think body conscious silhouettes look amazing on fuller bodies.”

In addition to Ester Manas and Di Petsa, designers like Rick Owens in Paris, Marco Rambaldi in Milan, and Collina Strada in New York kept inclusivity as a fixture on the runway. They continue to prove that skin-baring designs and body-conscious silhouettes are not exclusive to any one body. “I don’t think there should be one body type that represents fashion,” says Collina Strada creative director Hillary Taymour. “The world is full of different people, and fashion is much more exciting when it reflects that.”

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来源:颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com