四季之后，Veronica Leoni 离开 Calvin Klein
Veronica Leoni Exits Calvin Klein After Four Seasons
Calvin Klein 10 月 15 日宣布：Collection 创意总监 Veronica Leoni 在完成四个系列后离任，继任者尚未公布，品牌称将在适当时候宣布新的 Collection 创意领导人选，并强调 Collection 仍是品牌长期战略的重要部分、是品牌的最高表达。全球品牌总裁 David Savman 在声明中感谢她过去两年的创意视野与合作，称重新推出 Collection 是品牌的重要里程碑。Leoni 2024 年 5 月上任，2025 年 2 月在纽约时装周首秀——那是 Calvin Klein 时隔七年重返秀场。她是这家纽约时装屋的第一位女性掌舵者，此前在 Jil Sander、Phoebe Philo 时期的 Céline、Moncler 和 The Row 工作，也有自己的品牌 Quira（上任后暂停）。请她来的前品牌总裁 Eva Serrano 已于 2025 年 5 月离任，距首秀仅三个月。评价层面，她的作品曾被批对一个以 90 年代极简和牛仔著称的品牌来说过于复杂；最后一季走向简化，反而成为四季里最受好评的一季。财务背景不轻松：PVH 7 月公布的二季度里 Calvin Klein 销售额同比跌 7%，集团正推进 PVH+ 计划、把 Calvin Klein 与 Tommy Hilfiger 改造成更现代的生活方式公司。她之后会不会重启 Quira，原文只是猜测，本站不作定论。署名：颜如玉编辑台。
Veronica Leoni is leaving Calvin Klein after four seasons, the company announced on Thursday. A successor has not yet been named, but the brand said in a statement it will announce its new Collection creative leadership in due course.
“I want to thank Veronica for her creative vision, commitment, and partnership over the past two years,” said David Savman, global brand president, Calvin Klein, in the statement. “Reintroducing Collection was a significant milestone for Calvin Klein, and Veronica’s exceptional talent and fresh perspective on Calvin’s iconic design codes helped build meaningful momentum for Collection. Collection remains an important part of our brand; we are excited by the progress to date and look forward to its continued evolution.”
Leoni was appointed creative director of Calvin Klein Collection in May 2024 and made her debut at New York Fashion Week in February 2025 for the Fall/Winter 2025 season. The show marked Calvin Klein’s return to the runway after a seven-year absence. Leoni’s fourth and final collection for Calvin Klein debuted in September 2026. The brand said that Collection “remains an important part of Calvin Klein’s long-term strategy and the pinnacle expression of the brand”.
Leoni was hired by former Calvin Klein president Eva Serrano, who departed the brand in May 2025, just three months following Leoni’s debut. Leoni — the first woman to lead the New York fashion house — came bearing experience working with European labels including Jil Sander, Phoebe Philo’s Céline, Moncler, and The Row. She also had her own label, Quira, which was put on pause after she took the Calvin Klein job. Leoni’s first show became one of the most anticipated for New York fashion in recent years, but after a few seasons, critics decided her work was overcomplicated for a brand best known for its minimalist ’90s aesthetic and blue jeans. Her most recent collection was a step toward simplification, and became her most well-received of her four seasons at the brand. Her departure makes her the latest in the designer revolving door and leaves open yet another vacancy fashion is sure to speculate over.
Calvin Klein Collection, the brand’s luxury tier, has had two other creative directors since its founder retired in 2003: Francisco Costa and Raf Simons. Simons, who was chief creative officer from 2016-2018, reimagined the collection as Calvin Klein 205W39NYC; after his departure, the brand stepped back from the runway.
Calvin Klein sales fell 7% year over year in Q2, which PVH reported in July. PVH CEO Stefan Larsson, who’s overseeing a broader PVH+ Plan to steer Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger into modernized lifestyle companies, said last September that the goal for Calvin Klein Collection is to be “the ultimate expression of the brand”, which is otherwise known for its celebrity-fronted denim and underwear campaigns. We’ll have to wait and see where it fits into PVH’s bigger plans without Leoni. As for Leoni, maybe Quira will get another go.
来源：颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com