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颜如玉编辑台· Alexandra Hildreth·· 14 天前AI 评分72

2027 春季秀场被「主角单品」接管:一条腰带的搜索量涨了 350%

I Need a Hero: How Statement Items Ruled the Spring 2027 Collections

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Vogue 把 2027 春季系列里最抢眼的现象总结成一个词:hero item(主角单品)——Prada 的 63 条半身裙、Chanel 的 83 双鞋、Celine 的虫眼墨镜与超大腰带,都是这种单品。它们既不是疫情前 logo 狂热的回潮,也不仅仅是古怪复兴:在更懂时尚的数字时代,一双鞋上撞色的鞋头本身就在传递信号。文章认为这股风的起点可以追到 Dario Vitale 为 Versace 做的那一季——Neiman Marcus 与 Saks 的 Chloe King 说,他那些大胆、图形感强的铅笔裙与鞋在 9 月就穿满了业内人士身上。设计师与买手给出的解释高度一致:Tory Burch 说顾客厌倦了完美与可预测,转而追有个性、幽默、鲜明颜色与细节的单品,她 2023 春季首发的穿孔鞋至今仍是品牌最认得出的一件;Dries Van Noten 的 Julian Klausner 也说,这一季人们记住的是具体的包、鞋、外套,而不是整体造型。数据也在撑这股风:按 Google Trends,声明感腰带(statement belts)的搜索涨了 350%,繁复堆叠式项链涨了 250%;Prada 与 Raf Simons 干脆整季不做裤子、只推半身裙公式,RealReal 与 eBay 上复古 Prada 半身裙的搜索已经跟着涨。奢侈品顾问 Robert Burke 说,他多年没见过鞋履被如此强调——Chanel 的 Matthieu Blazy 为每个造型配了一双不同的鞋。另一层推力是明星设计师崇拜:Substack 作者 Jalil Johnson 说,哪怕单品本身不算全新,只要它抓住了当下的感觉,买它就像「买下一段历史」;King 的收尾判断是,这一季的主张恰恰是主角单品不必只留给特殊场合、也不必省着穿。说明:本文为编辑与受访买手、设计师的趋势观察,搜索涨幅为原文引用的 Google Trends 口径、非本站统计。署名:颜如玉编辑台。

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What do Prada’s 63 skirts, Chanel’s 83 pairs of shoes, and Celine’s bug-eyed sunglasses and oversized belts have in common? They’re all hero items fresh from the spring 2027 runways. These are not the Gucci double G belts or Balenciaga logo T-shirts of a pre-pandemic logomania scene, nor are they purely part of a Man Repeller-era eccentric revival. These hero items’ particular funk is part of a new system of signaling in a more fashion-savvy digital age, one where a pair of pump’s contrasting teal toe cap says it all.

Much has been said about the end of quiet luxury—the vibrant menswear collections over the summer finally squashed that conversation entirely, actually. Meanwhile, in the background, favorable sentiments about statement pieces have been stewing. A good argument could be made that the hero item’s return really kicked off with Dario Vitale’s lone, glorious collection for Versace where rumpled, sensual savants ran supreme. “Bold, graphic and colorful, [Vitale’s] pencil skirts and shoes were on every industry insider in September,” Chloe King, of Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue, told Vogue.

Versace spring 2026 readytowear

Versace, spring 2026 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Versace

“Right now, there’s a fatigue around perfection and predictability, and a desire for individuality,” says Tory Burch. “Our customer is gravitating towards pieces with personality, wit, distinctive color, and detail: embroidered cardigans, oversized sunglasses, tromp l’oeil Pierced hardware, and handwoven shoes and totes.” The pierced shoes, which originally launched with the spring 2023 collection, are still one of the brand’s biggest, and most recognizable, hits.

Dries Van Noten’s Julian Klausner is embracing his customers’ enthusiasm for singularity, as well. On an episode of The Run-Through With Vogue, taped two days after his retro glam show, he said, “what I love is that people are really picking up on specific pieces. I feel like this time around, more than the image or the general looks or show, it’s really people picking up on a bag, on a shoe, on a jacket, on a T-shirt.”

If a designer’s gut-check isn’t enough, larger data points back this up, too. According to Google trends, searches for statement belts, like the ones seen at Celine, Valentino, and Chopova Lowena this season (as well as at brands including Chloe and Polo Ralph Lauren a season earlier), were up 350%, while statement necklaces of the “everything and the kitchen sink” variety, as we called them in the fall 2026 accessories trend report, were up 250%.

Image may contain Manuela Bosco Clothing Skirt Accessories Bag Handbag Blazer Coat Jacket Adult and Person

Dries Van Noten, spring 2027

Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com

Image may contain Adult Person Fashion Clothing Skirt Runway Beachwear Footwear and Shoe

Prada, spring 2027 ready-to-wear

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons made a convincing argument for the power of the statement skirt formula, casting off pants entirely. The RealReal and eBay are already experiencing an uptick in vintage Prada skirt queries for those who wish to recreate the runway magic.

The specificity of a statement shoe, like Prada’s perforated pumps or the Jil Sander’s curved heels, is more difficult to come by on the secondhand market, of course. That means that accessories are coming to the forefront. “I can’t remember a season in many, many years where the focus of footwear has been so incredibly strong,” luxury consultant Robert Burke told Vogue Business. “It was a deliberate move to put an emphasis on creative footwear, which can change an outfit.” For proof consider Chanel where Matthieu Blazy sent 83 unique pairs of shoes down the runway, one for every look.

Image may contain Clothing Pants Long Sleeve Sleeve Adult Person Fashion Electronics Mobile Phone and Phone

Celine, spring 2027 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Celine

Another factor contributing to the hero item phenomenon is the cult of the celebrity designer. Customers went crazy—both in Paris and in New York—for the first drops of Blazy’s Chanel. “Even if the item maybe isn’t terribly novel, if they’re capturing a fresh feeling, which is what Matthieu is doing, there is this rationale to invest because it’s capturing the moment,” said style Substacker Jalil Johnson. “It’s almost like buying a piece of history.”

Take Michael Rider, who has struck lightning at Celine. Scroll on TikTok, and you’ll see fans recreating the cummerbunds from the recent men’s runway. Try to snag a pair of the fall drop’s ultra-low kitten heels or a certain color of the smiley luggage pouches before they’re all snapped up? Good luck. “The Parisian sales girls were like, ‘That’s a hot item, hide it,’” Johnson recounted.

Salesperson advice aside, as demonstrated by our street style trends, people are really are wearing their Celine trophies out and about. “What I loved about the spring 2027 season was the proposition that hero items need not be saved for a special occasion, nor worn sparingly,” said King.

来源:颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com