Mikio Sakabe 东京 2027 春季：把泳装秀搬进原宿商场，逃离现实又逃不掉
Mikio Sakabe Tokyo Spring 2027
Mikio Sakabe 的东京 2027 春季系列把秀场设在原宿传奇商场 La Foret，灵感却来自日本写真杂志——那些面向男性市场、让模特穿内衣、泳装或角色扮演服装摆拍的刊物。他把这一季想象成「一场在购物商场里举行的泳装秀」：秀道上故意散落着丢弃的咖啡杯和饮料罐，他说，在日本时装商场里办秀这件事本身就很有意思，亮丽、招摇，却又有一点悲伤。系列在两极之间交替：一头是直白的比基尼，另一头是他标志性的解构式超大剪裁与衬衫——被割开、多层叠穿成混乱的形状，有的缀着荷叶边，有的垂着像兔耳朵一样的附属物。所有模特都戴着遮住眼睛、头盔一样的假发，这是他近几季的签名；脚上统一是他 2019 年创办的鞋履项目 Grounds 的泡泡底运动鞋，该项目如今在全球雇了约 100 人。Sakabe 是 Demna 在安特卫普的同班同学，擅长把地下文化的深处挖出来、拧成有时带讽刺却依然让人想穿的时装。评论指出，这一季讲的是逃离现实的欲望、以及逃不掉的徒劳：写真的超现实表面感，正对着商场这个日常得不能再日常的场景。最后一个造型把想法收束住——一件只穿了一半的衬衫裙，上面银色的 slit 像一道道通往另一个宇宙的门。说明：本文为 Vogue 的秀场评论，设计师意图与主题解读为评论者与设计师本人的表述。署名：颜如玉编辑台。
La Foret, the legendary teeny-bopper mall in the heart of Harajuku, provided an apt stage for Mikio Sakabe to show a collection about hunting for a source of fantasy. Japan’s gravure magazines—vaguely erotic, male-marketed publications that feature bambi-eyed models posing in lingerie, swimwear, or cosplay—served as his left-field starting point for a collection he envisioned as a “swimsuit show held in a shopping mall.”
“There’s something interesting about the concept of a fashion show in a Japanese fashion mall. It feels bright and showy but it’s also a little sad,” he said. The runway was intentionally littered with discarded coffee cups and drink cans to make the point. Alternating with straight-up bikinis, models came out dressed in Sakabe’s trademark deconstructed oversized tailoring and shirting that was slashed and layered in chaotic shapes, some festooned with frills or given floppy appendages that looked like bunny ears.
All of them wore the eye-obscuring, helmet-like wigs that Sakabe has made his signature for the past few seasons (“somehow I really like them,” he said). Also uniting them were their bubble-soled sneakers from Sakabe’s smash hit footwear project Grounds—founded in 2019, it now employs around 100 people globally.
Sakabe, who was a classmate of Demna at Antwerp, is an expert at mining the depths of underground culture and twisting it into sometimes ironic fashion that is still desirable (he has swathes of fans across Asia). Like much of Sakabe’s work, this collection was about the desire to escape from reality, and the futility of trying to do so: the hyperreal superficiality of gravure, contrasted with the banal context of a shopping mall. The last look, a half-worn shirtdress, brought the idea into focus: decorated with slits of silver, they appeared like portals to another universe.
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来源：颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com