跳到正文
颜如玉编辑台· Tommy Ton·· 16 天前AI 评分64

配饰要不要做减法:街拍摄影师 Tommy Ton 说,多戴一件反而更像自己

Tommy's Take on Why More Is More When it Comes to Accessorizing

AI 导读

出门前对着镜子摘掉一件配饰——这句流传多年的建议,街拍摄影师 Tommy Ton 在 Vogue 的月度专栏里公开唱了反调。他的看法是:经过几季「静奢」与极简衣橱之后,克制已经变成另一种制服,人人戴同款吊坠、同款大带扣,个体差异反而被磨平。配饰最有意思的时候恰恰是它打破这种统一感:几乎每根手指都有戒指、手腕叠满手镯、项链长短交错挂满吊坠、耳饰自成一套,这类看起来不完全「讲得通」的组合,很少是刻意算计出来的——一根细链配一个重吊坠、一枚钻戒挨着一枚便宜银戒指,像是从不同地方、不同人、不同人生阶段里慢慢攒起来的,穿在身上是生活痕迹,不是造型作业。他给读者的建议很具体:下次伸手拿一条项链时,不妨再加一条、甚至第三条;把平时留着晚上才戴的戒指戴上,手镯叠起来,耳饰也可以夸张一点——不喜欢随时可以摘,但先试试「不想摘」的那种快乐。需要说明的是,原文后半附有编辑选品清单,本文只提炼专栏的观点与搭配思路,不推荐任何具体产品。署名:颜如玉编辑台。

正文

Tommy Ton has always had a unique point of view on what makes an outfit sing. One of fashion’s earliest street style photographers, his subjects—individuals with style and substance in equal measure—aren't following trends. They’re expressing something deeper, and that difference is what makes his shots so compelling. Sure, the clothes are always great, but his takes capture the true essence of the wearer. In monthly installments surrounding a fashion theme, he'll explore the outfits that caught his eye and why. Here’s Tommy’s Take.


Is more more, or is less more? For years, we’ve been told that good taste is knowing when to stop. Coco Chanel’s famous advice of looking in the mirror before leaving the house and removing one thing has become something of a fashion commandment for many. But I’ve always wondered what happens when we do the opposite. What if, instead of taking something away, you add another necklace, another ring, another earring, another bracelet? What if the most interesting thing about getting dressed is not knowing when to stop, but having the confidence not to?

After seasons of quiet luxury and wardrobes edited down to the essentials, I find myself drawn to a more expressive approach to accessorizing. Somewhere along the way, restraint became synonymous with sophistication, and the absence of adornment was elevated into a marker of taste. But minimalism, for all its elegance, can become its own uniform. When everyone is wearing the same monogram pendant or oversized belt buckle, how much individuality is left?

Jewelry is most interesting when it disrupts that uniformity. I love the woman with rings on nearly every finger, a wrist stacked with cuffs and bracelets, necklaces layered at different lengths and crowded with pendants, and earrings that seem to be having a conversation of their own. There is something wonderfully assured about a look that refuses to be fully resolved. It doesn’t ask whether every piece matches, whether the proportions are balanced, or whether one more accessory might be too much. It simply embraces the pleasure of wearing what you love.

What strikes me most about this more-is-more approach is that it rarely feels calculated. The best examples are always a little imperfect: a delicate chain mixed with a heavy pendant; a diamond ring beside an inexpensive silver band; a charm-laden brooch that clinks with every movement. Nothing needs to match, nor should it. The most compelling combinations look as if they came together over time, collected from different places, people, and phases of one’s life. The result feels lived-in rather than meticulously styled.

Perhaps this is why the current appetite for accessorizing feels so refreshing. Not everything needs to be versatile, timeless, or sensible. Some things are worth wearing simply because they make you happy.

So the next time you reach for just one necklace, consider adding another. Then perhaps a third. Put on the rings you usually save for evenings out, stack your bracelets, and let the earrings be a little outrageous. You can always take something off. But there is a certain joy in discovering that you don’t want to.

Chain Reaction

Image may contain Clothing Coat Jacket Accessories Bag Handbag Blouse Pants Jewelry Necklace and Blazer

Renato Cipullo

Splendente letter pendant

Sherman Field

Axis chain necklace


Want more? Shop Tommy’s September Take, below.

In an industry as vast and layered as fashion, it’s worth asking: who inspires the tastemakers? Who shapes the eye of the people who decide what is photographed and published, what earns a place on the runway, and what ultimately finds its way onto the racks of the world’s most coveted department stores?

Designers long occupied the highest tier of fashion’s hierarchy of influence. Together with editors, journalists, stylists, and buyers, they defined what we desired before we had the language to desire it ourselves. Now that we live under the influence of algorithms and celebrity and influencer culture, genuine style has become increasingly difficult to distinguish from mere visibility. True originality is quieter—and infinitely more compelling.

Several times a year, the industry converges on the world’s fashion capitals. Equal parts work and reunion, Fashion Week carries the unmistakable energy of summer camp, bringing together friends and colleagues who have spent months apart. Between the action of the shows themselves, another spectacle quietly unfolds on the sidewalks and in the queues. Fashion Week remains one of the world’s greatest people-watching opportunities.

It is often here, unexpectedly, that the most memorable style reveals itself. Not on the runway, but on an unfamiliar face glimpsed again and again throughout the week. You begin to notice the subtle details: the effortless knot of a belt cinching a jacket, the unexpected layering of heirloom pendants, the confidence of someone dressing entirely for themselves rather than for the cameras. Before long, you’ve developed a style crush on someone whose name you may never learn.

This is an ode to those women: the ones who influence the influential. The insiders whose instinct, rather than their following, has earned the admiration of fashion’s most discerning insiders. They are, quite simply, your favorite fashion insider’s favorite fashion insider.

Alex Carl

Image may contain Clothing Coat Pants Person Jeans Blazer Jacket Overcoat and Walking

Photographed by Tommy Ton

Cos

tailored double-breasted coat

Banana Republic

Riley tailored shirt

Laura Roso Vidrequin

Image may contain Clothing Pants Pedestrian Person Adult Car Transportation Vehicle Knitwear Sweater and Machine

Photographed by Tommy Ton

The Great.

The Academy polo sweater

Dries Van Noten

wrap midiskirt

Marta Oldrini

Image may contain Clothing Sleeve Shorts Pedestrian Person Accessories and Adult

Photographed by Tommy Ton

H&M

shoulder-pad shirt

Prada

suspender straps skirt

Amy Sall

Image may contain Clothing Coat Accessories Bag Handbag Person Standing and Pedestrian

Photographed by Tommy Ton

Toteme

suede coat

Massimo Dutti

fringe knit top

Yana McKillop

Image may contain Clothing Coat Jacket Accessories Bag Handbag Blonde Hair Person Blazer Adult Purse and Helmet

Photographed by Tommy Ton

Bottega Veneta

cotton twill blouson

Cos

mock-neck knitted swater


Want more? Shop Tommy’s July Take, below.

Image may contain Pedestrian Person Standing Adult Clothing Footwear Shoe Head Face and Skirt

Photographed by Tommy Ton

The Bra Top Grows Up

Gabriella Karefa-Johnson proves the bra top has graduated beyond the beach. Layered beneath an oversized cotton poplin shirt and paired with a lace-trim slip skirt, the look feels effortlessly city-ready, while Chanel’s cap-toe pumps add the perfect finishing touch.

Comme Si

La Shirt Classica

Maria McManus

bias lace midiskirt

Jennifer Behr

Veda necklace

Chanel

pumps

Image may contain Jonathan Cyprien Pedestrian Person Walking Clothing Skirt Adult Footwear Shoe and Accessories

Photographed by Tommy Ton

Wear White, Stay Cool

There’s a reason white dominates every summer wardrobe: it reflects heat while always looking polished. Black accessories, including Prada’s pouch-shaped bag—the silhouette of the season—give the monochromatic look welcome definition.

Flore Flore

Steffi T-shirt

Cou Cou Intimates

The Slip skirt

Prada

Wish pouch

Madewell

Mylie ballet flats

Image may contain Clothing Footwear Sandal Shoe Adult Person and Shorts

Photographed by Tommy Ton

The New Way to Wear Sheer

Go beyond bohemian styling. Marta Oldrini proves a sheer skirt can feel decidedly city-ready, pairing the airy silhouette with this summer’s trending butter yellow, minimalist flip-flops, and understated accessories for a look that feels perfectly at home on the streets of Paris—even in a heatwave.

Jenni Kayne

Gem tote bag

Mango

tie waist shirt

Cos

sheer pintucked skirt

A. Emery

Kinto flip-flops

Image may contain Clothing Pants Jeans Head Person Face Footwear Sandal Adult and Standing

Photographed by Tommy Ton

Denim Gets Room to Breathe

Heatwaves demand a softer take on denim. Swap rigid silhouettes for a breezy chambray shirt and relaxed jeans—a combination that feels just as polished, but far more comfortable.

Gap

denim big shirt

Levi's

Low Loose jeans

Mejuri

Dôme cuff bracelet

Loeffler Randall

Noor sandals

Image may contain Katerina Stikoudi Clothing Shorts Pants Adult Person Footwear Shoe and Pedestrian

Photographed by Tommy Ton

The Not-So-Short Shorts

The Row’s impeccably tailored shorts offer a polished alternative to the casual cutoffs of summers past. Finished with sleek loafers—a refreshing change from the season’s ubiquitous sandals—the result is effortlessly chic for city dressing.

Flore Flore

Esmé ribbed tank

The Row

Kalyan shorts

Gucci

Jackie 1961 bag

Tory Burch

Gemini loafers

Image may contain Adult Person Pedestrian Clothing Skirt Beachwear and Helmet

Photographed by Tommy Ton

Let the Skirt Do the Talking

The easiest way to style a statement skirt? Keep everything else understated. A simple tank creates the perfect backdrop, while snakeskin shoes—the exotics trend is maintaining its stronghold—add just the right amount of fashion polish.

Banana Republic

ribbed scoop-neck tank

Zara

floral midiskirt

Agmes

Annaya necklace

Khaite

Miriam pumps


Want more? Shop Tommy’s June Take, below.

Image may contain Mao Xiaotong Clothing Coat Person Adult Accessories Bag Handbag Skirt Overcoat and Purse

Tommy’s Take on the Joy of Accessorizing

Fashion experts have always emphasized investing in a wardrobe of foundational essentials: the perfect white shirt, a tailored suit, a little black dress, and so on. But once you’ve found those building blocks, the next question becomes: how do you avoid getting caught up in the constant seasonal cycle of trends just to make your closet feel relevant again?

The answer is quite simple: focus on accessories. Small accents, whether it’s a bag in an interesting color, a brooch that has a deeper meaning, or a belt that invites a closer look, can instantly give your wardrobe more clarity and a fresh perspective. Clothes come and go, but a beautifully curated collection of accessories stays in rotation for longer than a single season when you invest wisely in the right pieces. After all, no one ever said you can have too many accessories.

Featured in this article

The Red Knit

Suzie Kondi Kadria cardigan

Jump to review

The Silver Cuff

Agmes Jean cuff

Jump to review

The Wallet-as-Belt

Savette Symmetry wallet

Jump to review

The Printed Scarf

Celine printed silk scarf

Jump to review

The Statement Shades

Celine Eyewear aviator-style acetate sunglasses

Jump to review

If there has been one brand that has sparked a renewed interest in accessorizing, it’s without a doubt Celine under Michael Rider. From the very first look of his debut collection, what immediately caught your eye was that wrist full of charm bracelets, the hand stacked with rings, and the oversized gold medallion belt buckle slightly peeking out from beneath a blazer. It was a sign that all those never-ending discussions about quiet luxury were finally going to be put to rest.

It was a clever exercise in merchandising as well, as you couldn’t help but be drawn to all those delicious accessories that perfectly accented each look. It was like a fashion enthusiast’s version of walking into a candy store. Whether it was a silk foulard effortlessly tied around a model’s jacket or half-tucked beneath a lapel, it made you want to replicate the styling and adopt it into your wardrobe immediately. You could sense that this collection was going to influence fashion at the highest level before trickling down to the masses; the true mark of an impactful collection is when its imprint can be seen on fashion insiders the following season.

Image may contain Clothing Skirt Adult Person Miniskirt Coat Racket Sport Tennis and Tennis Racket

Fast-forward nine months later to Paris Fashion Week, outside a show at the Petit Palais, and all those chic gestural styling cues from the Celine runway had made their way to the street in an unexpected masterclass in styling. Caught in conversation, it was quite a sight to see how three fashion professionals (Sarah Park, Ramya Giangola, and Lisa Aiken) unintentionally complemented one another and somehow captured the mood of the moment.

Everything that felt timeless yet modern was there: glimpses of bold primary colors, subtle accents of gold and silver hardware, small leather wallets and pouchettes, and classic black frames. It was very much in the French way of dressing, where the individual nuances of each look made you curious and encouraged you to reconsider what you already own. After closely scanning each look from head to toe, it became clear that each of these women had adopted elements of the Celine preppy bourgeois aesthetic. Yet it wasn’t a head-to-toe runway look that made their outfits stand out. Rather, it was the fact that each woman carefully borrowed styling cues from Celine and made them distinctly her own. You could easily sense the playfulness and joy in the way they got dressed.

What’s crucial when reevaluating your wardrobe each season is looking for pieces that offer day-to-night versatility and can be effortlessly thrown together without too much thought. Practicality matters, but it’s also about allowing yourself to step slightly outside your comfort zone. Whether it’s buying the right jewelry or embracing color, you don’t want to feel intimidated by your accessories or uncertain about when it’s appropriate to wear them. You want these timeless investment pieces to feel like lifelong treasured friends that come out to play when the occasion is right. They are ultimately what truly bring an outfit together.

Image may contain Accessories Bag Handbag Face Happy Head Person Smile Adult Blonde Hair Sunglasses and Purse

A Touch of Red

With a nod to the Celine Spring 26 runway, Lisa Aiken nonchalantly drapes a bold printed Celine silk foulard off her shoulder in a way that feels modern and chic. The flashes of rouge red from her Khaite pouchette and scarf perfectly balance the gold accents.

Image may contain Accessories Bag Handbag Blazer Clothing Coat Jacket Photography Face Head Person and Portrait

Something Old, Something New, Something Blue

Ramya Giangola effortlessly remixes old Celine by Phoebe Philo with new Celine by Michael Rider in her own unique way that ticks all the boxes. From the large gold medallion belt to the silk foulard tied with small leather pouchettes, they instantly give her vintage Celine skirt from spring 2010 a playful update.

Celine

small crystal pouch

Celine Eyewear

aviator-style acetate sunglasses

Double Trouble

Sarah Park’s monochromatic layers of red knits are a classic nod to the American Parisian preppy trend but with a more refined elevated take as she perfectly pairs the right amount of costume jewelry completed by her signature belted duo of mini wallets from The Row.

Toteme

Drop onyx necklace

Savette

Symmetry wallet

Agmes

Jean cuff

Suzie Kondi

Kadria cardigan

Shop more joyful summer finds:

Toteme

printed silk-twill scarf

Bottega Veneta

Sea Coral hoop earrings

Le Sundial

Venice Opera stone earrings

Jil Sander

Tangle net bag

来源:颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com