“医美级护肤品”到底是什么意思？皮肤科医生拆解营销话术与选购方法

Somewhere between the serum shelf and your For You page, “medical-grade” became the most reassuring phrase in beauty. It conjures authoritative images of a lab coat, a prescription pad, and the idea that your money is going somewhere serious. But, plot twist: Not one person regulates the term. “The phrase ‘medical-grade’ is vague and arbitrary,” dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, MD, says bluntly. “It does not correlate with effectiveness or safety.”

And consumers are starting to catch on. After all, there are only a few skincare ingredients proven to work, and dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD, says skeptical shoppers ask her about the term every day. “My patients and followers are wondering, ‘is this skincare backed by science, and will it work?’ They want to know whether they’re investing in healthier skin or just a prettier bottle,” she says. After all, no one wants to be duped by products and ingredients that are a total scam.

Meet the experts: Joshua Zeichner, MD, is an associate professor of dermatology and the director of cosmetic & clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. Mona Gohara, MD, is a clinical professor in the department of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine.

So, let’s sort the science from the sales pitch. Read on to find out what the term (kinda, sorta) means, what it doesn’t, and how to shop the skincare aisle like a dermatologist.

What’s in a name?

Ask around, and the definitions of ‘”medical-grade” skincare multiply. Dr. Zeichner says it usually indicates a product with a high concentration of science-backed active ingredients, but not always. Depending on the brand, it can refer to the quality of a product’s ingredients, any clinical testing on the final formula, or the use of one particular active.

Dr. Gohara likens the phrase to physician-dispensed skincare designed to complement dermatologic care (in other words, the products you’d purchase at a doctor’s office). But now, she says it became shorthand for formulas built around specific skin concerns and that its visibility has grown as consumers have become more interested in the ingredients and science behind their routines.

Shoppers tend to assume these products are stronger and come with a dermatologist’s guidance, but they shouldn’t, says Dr. Zeichner. In his view, the skincare market is extremely crowded, and this is a way brands are chasing a competitive edge. In some cases, the term is used interchangeably with other unregulated phrases, like “dermatologist-formulated” or “dermatologist-approved,” giving the appearance of a professional quality product, whatever that means.

The whole truth.

Let’s start with the regulatory facts. “Medical-grade” is not an FDA-recognized term, Dr. Gohara confirms. In fact, the agency only very loosely regulates the claims of cosmetics. They do draw a line between a cosmetic product and a pharmaceutical (like prescription tretinoin, for example): Cosmetics, which include most moisturizers and serums, are meant to improve the appearance of skin. They can’t claim to change skin’s structure or function.

Over-the-counter drugs, such as acne treatments, sunscreens, and eczema treatments, contain active ingredients cleared by the FDA for a specific condition and their packaging includes a drug facts box listing the active ingredients. This part’s important: The term “medical-grade” does not indicate that a product is an OTC drug. “Slapping it on a label doesn’t give a product a separate regulatory status,” says Dr. Gohara.

The bottom line is that “if you see the term on a label, take it with a big grain of salt,” advises Dr. Zeichner. He says the definition “can mean whatever the brand wants it to.” While the products may have higher concentrations of actives, there are no specific percentages shoppers can look for. Dr. Gohara says that many physician-dispensed brands invest in clinical studies, ingredient stability, and delivery systems that help actives work while limiting irritation, but you can’t always tell from the label alone. “The value comes from that research, formulation, and guidance,” she says. “The term alone doesn’t tell you which advantages a product offers.”

Shop for skincare like a dermatologist.

With packaging out of the picture, both doctors point to the same strategy: Start with what your skin needs, then pick ingredients with a proven track record of addressing those concerns. To that end, Dr. Zeichner says retinol is perhaps the best-studied ingredient for aging skin. It’s a form of vitamin A shown to speed cell turnover and stimulate collagen.

He also singles out vitamin C as one to look for. It’s an antioxidant that helps neutralize free radical damage from UV, blocks abnormal pigment production to fade dark spots, and supports collagen production. Lastly, hydroxy acids such as alpha hydroxy acids (think glycolic and lactic) and beta hydroxy acids (salicylic acid) are also worth your dough. The former help dissolve the connections between surface cells so they shed more easily; the latter clears excess oil and helps keep pores clear.

Dr. Gohara names broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF 30 or higher as a must-have, a 5% niacinamide serum for uneven tone, and 2.5% benzoyl peroxide for inflamed acne, which she says can work at higher strengths as well (though irritation can happen). She adds that percentages aren’t interchangeable between ingredients, and that the finished formula and consistent use matter, too. If the box doesn’t list ingredient concentrations, Dr. Zeichner suggests snapping a photo of the box and researching the product at home before buying (brand websites often hold a lot of useful information).

And watch for red flags—Dr. Zeichner calls out vague language, a lack of transparency about ingredients or clinical testing, and promises that seem too good to be true. Dr. Gohara says claims to “erase” deep wrinkles, “eliminate” pores, or “clear” years of pigmentation in a weekend are warning signs. “If the promise sounds like a facelift by Friday, skip it.”

Solid Skincare Staples

Retinol Cream

A dermatologist favorite, Skin Better Science’s famed retinol pairs the vitamin A derivative with lactic acid and hydrators like squalane and ceramides to tackle wrinkles and skin texture with no irritation.

Vitamin C Serum

This serum, which is often duplicated, is widely-considered to be the best-of-the-best when it comes to vitamin C products. Pairing the ingredient with ferulic acid and vitamin E (where the product gets its name) keeps the C stable and boosts its effectiveness.

Glycolic Acid Pads

These days, there are more exfoliating pads lining store shelves than there are short-shorts in Harry Styles’ closet. SkinMedica’s are the best—effective, gentle, efficient.

Tinted Sunscreen

Yes, you want an SPF that protects skin from damaging UVA/UVB rays. But this one does so much more: Ectoin shields you from visible blue light while a powerful antioxidant blend keeps free radical damage at bay. This the Medieval armor of your skincare routine.

Benzoyl Peroxide Cleanser

When it comes to battling breakouts, benzoyl peroxide can’t be beaten. The prob: It can be irritating. A wash is a great solution, killing acne-causing bacteria without being too harsh on skin.

Niacinaide Product

These days, niacinamide serums are a dime a dozen. What makes Revision’s product worth its price is that it pairs this proven pigment fighter with advanced exosomal technology that helps boost skin longevity to stay healthier longer.

So what should your strategy be when shopping for skincare? A few general guidelines:

• First, name your concern. Are you dealing with dryness, wrinkles, acne, uneven tone, or keratosis pilaris? Give your product a specific job.
• Match it to an ingredient with science behind it. Retinoids for wrinkles, benzoyl peroxide for acne, lactic acid for keratosis pilaris, or niacinamide for uneven tone.
• Look for relevant validation. This is especially true for medical organizations and nonprofits. The National Eczema Association Seal of Acceptance, for example, can guide shoppers with eczema. The Skin Cancer Foundation—a leading skin cancer awareness organization—awards a seal of recommendation to sunscreens evaluated by its team. This type of third-party validation can be helpful in finding quality products.
• Choose a formula you’ll comfortably use. Creams often suit dry skin, and lighter lotions or gels may suit oily skin. Go fragrance-free if you’re sensitive, and look for opaque tubes or pumps for light-sensitive ingredients.
• Check the evidence before paying a premium. On the brand’s site, look for testing of the finished product and clear results: what improved, by how much, and after how long. A disclosed percentage helps for some actives, but the biggest number isn’t automatically the best buy.

Skip the label, check the ingredients.

At the end of the day, the next time you see “medical-grade” on a label, consider it mere marketing copy and keep reading. What’s inside the jar and what the brand can show about the finished product is what matters.

It’s also worth noting that spending more doesn’t buy better results, and more products can mean more problems, advises Dr. Zeichner. Higher concentrations may be necessary in some cases and just cause irritation in others. He keeps regimens simple, with the morning devoted to protection and the evening to hydration and repair. He recommends two products in the morning and two at night for patients. Combining too many can make them less effective and may cause dryness or irritation.

Dr. Gohara also advises saving where you can. An affordable cleanser, moisturizer, and broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher make an excellent foundation. Spending more can be worthwhile for a targeted treatment with research behind the finished formula, such as a stabilized vitamin C serum, a well-formulated retinoid, or a peptide product with evidence for its specific claims. You might also be paying for technology that keeps ingredients stable, makes them easier to tolerate, or gives a more elegant texture. “The upgrade should serve your skin, not just your bathroom shelf,” she says.

Last, know when to skip the shopping. Dr. Gohara says to see a dermatologist for persistent acne, rashes, stubborn pigmentation, or repeated irritation, and promptly for a changing or bleeding spot.

Sometimes expert guidance is the best investment in the routine.

Amber Katz has covered beauty for 20 years, writing everything from skincare science to foot scrubs. She's written for Women's Health, Glamour, Time, The Associated Press, Allure, Beauty Matter, Cosmopolitan, Elle, and Marie Claire. She's a contributing editor for Westchester County's business magazine, 914INC, and regularly contributes to Westchester Magazine, Hudson Valley Magazine, and The Seattle Times. She has tested and reviewed thousands of beauty products for media outlets and now shares her favorites in her best-selling newsletter, Things I Buy As A Civilian. She founded one of the first beauty blogs, Rouge 18, in 2006, and ran it until 2020—it was named one of the ten hottest beauty blogs by Women's Wear Daily and was featured in The New York Times, Vogue, Glamour, and People. Amber is a graduate of Boston University and lives in Rye, New York.

Brian Underwood is beauty director at Women’s Health, where he oversees content strategy for the brand across all platforms, including digital, print, and social. Underwood previously served as beauty and wellness director at Oprah Daily and O, The Oprah Magazine. During his tenure leading beauty content for the Oprah brand at Hearst, stories Underwood commissioned were awarded the Skin Cancer Foundation Media Award and a Fragrance Award for Editorial Excellence (his second). He was the launch Beauty Director of Dr. Oz THE GOOD LIFE, and has held additional editorial positions at Fitness, Organic Style, Good Housekeeping, Life & Style Weekly, and Woman’s Day and has written for Self, Shape, Seventeen, Redbook, Cosmopolitan, and many more. Underwood previously served on the Skin Cancer Foundation’s gala committee and as partnerships director of the Trans Beauty Clinic, a New York-based charitable organization that provided beauty services and workshops to the city’s trans community.