Francisco Cancino 墨西哥 2027 春季：把一张墨西哥日常地图册穿上身
Francisco Cancino Mexico Spring 2027
墨西哥设计师 Francisco Cancino 的 2027 春季系列 El Abrazo del Amor del Universo（宇宙之爱之拥抱），是他又一次「用时装谈墨西哥」：此前 2024 春季的 Los primeros mexicanos 溯源国家起源、2025 秋季的 La Última Ciudad 写到特拉特洛尔科，这次的起点是地图册——他与团队想做一本自己的地图册，把墨西哥日常风景里的词语、名字、人物与物件都收进来：仙人掌、发辫、做 gorditas 的妇人、围裙、Papantla 的帽子，都进了衣服。开场造型是白衬衫、条纹阔腿裤、乐福鞋加一件不对称垂褶的剪裁马甲，乍看在探讨时装里阳刚与阴柔的永恒张力，评论给出的另一种读法是「平衡」：结构与流动常在同一套衣服里并置——简单的 T 恤配精致的裙子，围裙被放进剪裁里。整场有很重的大地感：中性色调、像工作服的格纹、与墨西哥纺织艺术家 Alejandro Rincón 合作的手工头饰与立体贴花，一套橄榄绿西装上缀着一朵大而鲜艳的花，像把一片自然穿在身上；珠宝来自 Anndra Neen。评论的结论是：这可能是 Cancino 迄今最好的一个系列——质量与「把深概念叙事翻译成想买的衣服」的能力都在线，他在商业直觉与个人热情（尤其是剪裁）之间找到平衡，抬高了自己的标准。说明：本文为 Vogue Runway 秀场评论，评价属评论者基于本季系列的专业判断，非销售数据。署名：颜如玉编辑台。
Francisco Cancino always has something to say about Mexico. He did so in Los primeros mexicanos (spring 2024), when he explored the country’s origins, and in La Última Ciudad (fall 2025), when he turned his attention to Tlatelolco. The Chiapas-born designer has often looked to history, memory, and sometimes his own inner world to build his collections. But with El Abrazo del Amor del Universo (The Embrace of the Universe’s Love), his spring 2027 collection, Cancino looked to capture Mexico as it is today. He also imagined it beyond its borders.
His starting point was the atlas, those “universal books that describe the geography of places,” as he explained backstage after the show. Together with his team he set out to create his own, drawing on the words, names, characters, and objects that make up the country’s everyday landscape. “We imagined that if you looked at Mexico today, you’d have to include a prickly pear, a braid, a woman making gorditas, an apron, a hat from Papantla,” he said. All of these references found their way into the collection, though never literally. Instead, they were translated into tailoring, pleats, headpieces, volumes, and colors.
The opening look featured a white shirt, wide-leg striped trousers, loafers, and a tailored vest with asymmetrical draping, a very Cancino touch. At first glance, it seemed to explore fashion’s eternal tension between the masculine and the feminine. But there was another way to read it: balance. Structure and fluidity often appeared side by side in the same outfit: a simple T-shirt was paired with an exquisite skirt, while aprons found their place in tailoring.
There was something deeply earthy about this collection. The neutral tones, checks reminiscent of work uniforms, and handmade headpieces and three-dimensional appliqués created in collaboration with Mexican textile artist Alejandro Rincón helped bring Cancino’s vision of Mexico to life. An olive-green suit adorned with an oversized flower in vibrant colors seemed to carry a little piece of nature on the body. The jewelry came courtesy of Phoebe Stephens of Anndra Neen where Cancino has joined as co-creative director.
El Abrazo del Amor del Universo may well be Cancino’s best collection yet, both in terms of quality and its ability to translate a deeply conceptual narrative into desirable, commercially appealing clothes. In finding a balance between his commercial instincts and his more personal passions, particularly tailoring, he raised his own bar.
来源：颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com