Samuel Guì Yang上海2027春夏：借《青蛇》讲蜕皮，水纹里藏着文化交融
Samuel Guì Yang Shanghai Spring 2027
同在上海时装周，Samuel Guì Yang 把秀办在 Shanghai Film CHAO——一栋 1930 年代、把中西建筑影响折叠在一起的老建筑，正合这一季『文化交融与蜕变之乐』的主题。出发点是徐克 1993 年的电影《青蛇》（张曼玉、王祖贤主演），本就是对白蛇传说的现代重述；对品牌背后的设计双人组 Samuel Yang 与 Erik Litzén 来说，素材并不缺。水是全场的情绪基调：从涟漪波纹到冰川与烟雾的雾蓝，其间点缀电光绿与柔粉；手绘感印花、水洗表面与渐变色仿佛随模特身体流动。这个以往偏爱宽松比例的品牌，这一季线条明显更蜿蜒贴身——合身的层叠针织、拉长的廓形、勾勒身形的镂空；蛇纹被印上丝绸或织进提花，但并不直白，更像在暗示衣服是一种不断蜕皮、自我更新的过程。设计师强调，中国元素对他们不是贴在西方框架上的装饰，而是创作实践本身；这一季的对话还延伸到一幅宋代的水画，以及品牌自家旧档案印花的复兴。Vogue 秀评人 Tiziana Cardini 写道，秀址本身已经把话说清：历史和时尚一样，很少是直线，有时是蜿蜒前行的。说明：本文为秀场评论，系列阐释来自设计师自述与评论者观察，属审美解读而非可核实的行业数据。
At Shanghai Film CHAO, a 1930s building that folds Chinese and Western architectural influences into one another, Samuel Gui Yang found an apt setting for a collection about cultural crossovers and the pleasures of transformation. The starting point was Green Snake, Tsui Hark’s 1993 film starring Maggie Cheung and Joey Wong, a modern retelling of the ancient Chinese legend of the white snake. For designers Samuel Yang and Erik Litzén, the duo behind the label, there was no shortage of material to shed and reassemble.
Water set the mood, from rippling waves to the hazy blues of glaciers and smoke, punctuated by electric green and soft pink. Painterly prints, washed surfaces, and graduated colors seemed to shift with models’ bodies. For a brand whose silhouettes have often favored generous proportions, this season brought a more sinuous line: fitted, layered jerseys, elongated shapes, and openwork that traced the figure rather than skirting around it. Snakeskin patterns were printed onto silk or woven into jacquards; less literal than it sounds, the motif suggested clothing as a process of continual shedding and renewal.
Chinese references, the designers explained, are not decorative flourishes added to a Western framework but part of their creative practice. Here, the conversation extended from a Song-dynasty painting of water to revived archival prints from the brand’s own past. The location made the point without laboring it: history, like fashion, is rarely a straight line. Sometimes it slithers.
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来源：颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com