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颜如玉编辑台· Laura Neilson·· 4 小时前AI 评分68

高跟鞋回来了,但你还记得怎么穿吗?足病医生的姿态提醒

Heels Are So Back—But Do You Remember How to Wear Them?

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九月纽约春夏秀场前排的高跟鞋让作者意识到:高跟鞋正在回归——从 Tom Ford 的双色系带鞋到 Saint Laurent 4.3 英寸高跟乐福鞋,Net-a-Porter 采购负责人称这是“回归性感着装”的一部分。但对久不穿高跟鞋的一代人,作者试穿 3 英寸粗跟系带鞋时姿态垮塌、前倾如滑雪跳台。足病与人体运动专家 Emily Splichal 提醒:穿高跟鞋时姿态不能被动,要收紧腹部与盆底、把重心移回脚跟、记得呼吸;Dior 鞋履设计总监则把高跟鞋看作让人放慢脚步、有意识地行走的自我关照。文中提及品牌但无标价与购买清单,主体是趋势观察与穿法技巧,非购物复刻。

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Taking in the spring runway shows in New York in September, I couldn’t help but notice how many of my fashion friends and peers had transformed themselves over the summer: They were now tan, yes, and thinner—but also, suddenly, taller.

Surveying the high heels across the front row at Fforme, I was reminded of Raye’s anthemic call for women to step into their Jimmy Choos and stand in their power (“Click-click-click-clack symphony, I need that”).

“I think there’s a real return to sexy, feminine dressing right now, and heels are naturally part of that,” Brigitte Chartrand, Net-a-Porter’s chief buying and merchandising officer, told me after the show from atop her own pair of black-and-mint-green Chanel pumps.

Image may contain Clothing Footwear High Heel Shoe and Sandal

Illustration by Ana Terrall

This renaissance includes everything from Tom Ford’s two-toned slingbacks to Saint Laurent’s suede penny loafers—uplifted by a 4.3-inch heel. After the pandemic, I was convinced I’d never wear heels again; mere weeks ago, though, I found myself chasing down a pair of four-inch satin Aurore heels at the Dior boutique on Madison Avenue. (With a rosette the size of a pastry on the front, the shoes attracted me as much for their flirtatiousness as for their height.) “A high heel equals attitude,” says Nina Christen, Dior’s shoe design director (and the founder of her own eponymous brand), who sees their resurgence as a form of self-care which forces one to slow down and move intentionally. Movement director Emma Chadwick, who had models in heels bounding down subway steps for Chanel’s Métiers d’Art show in December, agrees about heels’ transforma- tive effects, both physically (“It elongates the line”) and mentally (“It helps create a character to transform into”).

The revival, however, is a new proposition for a generation with no muscle memory for heels. Trying on a pair of Coach slingbacks with a three-inch block heel, I faced my bedroom mirror. My posture had collapsed, and I was pitched forward like a ski jumper. Before I could feel high and mighty, I would need to master standing up straight.

“Your posture cannot be passive in heels,” Emily Splichal, a podiatrist and human movement expert, tells me. As a former personal trainer with a weakness for Chris- tian Louboutin’s Dolly mule, Splichal created a workout for heel-wearing women, and under her guidance I focus on keeping my balance evenly spread over my entire foot. Engage the abs and pelvic floor, she tells me, but also: Shift my weight back in the heel—and don’t forget to breathe. So I’m thumping around my apartment in my own click-clack symphony. It’s not great for my neighbors—but I’m enjoying the view from here.

Image may contain Clothing Footwear Shoe and High Heel

SOCK IT TO ME
Gucci pumps.


Photographed by Tom Blesch

Image may contain Clothing Footwear Shoe Ankle Body Part Person High Heel Hosiery and Sock

STEP IN TIME
Chanel slingbacks.


Photographed by Tom Blesch

Gucci

Boulevard pumps

Chanel

Chanel suede slingbacks

Image may contain Clothing Footwear Shoe High Heel and Person

JUST KITTEN
Prada slingbacks.


Photographed by Tom Blesch

Prada

embroidered slingback pumps

Dior

Dior Flora sandals

Alaïa

ankle strap pumps

来源:颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com