2027春夏成衣十大趋势：半身裙当主角、文胸式上衣替T恤，轻盈与不合身一起流行
The Top Trends of the Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Season Span Skirts, Bra Tops, and Misfit Glamour
Vogue 的时装编辑把 2027 春夏成衣季归纳为十个趋势，分量最重的一条是「轻」：去年夏季的极端高温还在影响设计师，颜色、透明度和重量都在往轻里走。半身裙被推到主角位置——Prada 一场秀就推出 63 种变奏，Marc Jacobs 与 Junya Watanabe 则用连体衣做模块化搭配的基础。文胸式上衣被喊出「新 T 恤」的口号，蕾丝、钩针和半透面料用在遮与露之间做文章。穿法上这一季鼓励不守规矩：圆点配格纹、格纹叠格纹的混搭，Jil Sander、Givenchy 等品牌故意做出的不合身感，以及把衬衫、牛仔裤反着穿的效果。牛仔没有退场，只是被重度装饰——Dolce & Gabbana 用珊瑚覆面、Roberto Cavalli 加羽毛与贴花，Balenciaga 把牛仔按斜裁处理。复古线有受 André Courrèges 与 1960 年代模特 Twiggy 启发的 A 字迷你裙和娃娃裙；运动线是 Lacoste、Gucci、Dries Van Noten 的橄榄球衫与 Polo。镂空织物负责透气与浪漫，金属光泽、羽毛与亮片负责舞台感——其中 Saint Laurent 是设计师 Anthony Vaccarello 的告别系列。需要说明：本文是编辑基于秀场的趋势归纳，属观察与解读，不是销售数据或行业统计，读者把它当作理解当季设计语言的导览即可。
The extreme heat of last summer is behind many of the fashion trends of spring 2027. Almost across the board, designers responded to the record-breaking temperatures by chasing lightness—in terms of color, transparency, and weightlessness. The higher the mercury, after all, the fewer clothes you want to wear. Bra tops are one solution. For the slightly more modest, there’s lace, crochet, and semi-sheer fabrics that play a coquettish reveal/conceal game à la the scrim in Unzipped. Babydoll dresses in the spirit of the 1960s model Twiggy and their accompanying endless stretches of leg are another possible alternative.
“The season of the skirt” was the headline after a Prada show in which 63 variations on the theme were presented. Rugbys and polo shirts were also in the spotlight, while jeans, the foundation of the global wardrobe, got a glow-up through elaborate decoration, dyes, and finishes. These three trends answer the question of what to wear.
Two others—mad pattern mixes and deliberately awkward fits—focus more on how we wear clothes, which is a preoccupation of Celine’s Michael Rider and professor Ross Posnock whose latest book American Sophistication: How the Casual Became Cool was published in September. The present ideal isn’t perfection, but a kind of rule-breaking individualism, preferably with an IYKYK spin. Offness, which feels anti-AI, is the turn on.
That glamour has no expiration date in fashion was demonstrated by the predominance of metallics, notably at Antony Vaccarello’s Midas-touched swansong at Saint Laurent. The golden age of Hollywood—and the Oscar statuette—was conjured by gilded designs. (File this under the ‘Dress for the Award You Want’ school of method dressing.) Feathers and strass brought to mind showgirls with their high-stepping can-do flair.
The Stand-Alone Skirt
At Prada, the singular object of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’s obsession was the skirt. In sending 63 variations down the runway, they effectively proposed the garment as object. Object of desire. Marc Jacobs and Junya Watanabe, meanwhile, used the bodysuit as the basis for a modular system of dressing.
L’Air du Temps
Welcome to waftcore. Chanel’s Mathieu Blazy initiated a tendency toward lightness a year ago, and it has since been taken up broadly, partly in response to extreme heat waves of the summer. Designers achieved a feeling of weightlessness with floaty fabrics and semi-sheer looks that don’t give everything away.
Clash Conscious
When it comes to taste this season, bad means good. Thirty-one years after Prada’s vibe changing pretty/ugly show (for spring 1996) the mad mix has become the ultimate marker of individual in-the-know style at Dries Van Noten, Alberta Ferretti, Maison Margiela, and co. Polka-dots and plaid? Plaid on plaid? Kilts in July? Go for all of it.
Pointed Messages
“The bra top is the new T-shirt” is right up there with “Bring Back Shame” as one of the season’s slogans. With Madonna so much in the news and much chatter about the coming of a matriarchal age, breasts have come to the fore and the brassiere has once again come out from under.
The Misfits
Complementing spring’s embrace of graphic havoc is an intriguing offness of fit, as seen at Jil Sander, Givenchy, and Lii. Jackets pull at the waist, while lapels scallop and swerve. And not only that; shirts and jeans were occasionally worn backwards on the runways, or were designed to have that effect.
Jeansmaxxing
Even in a season of skirts, jeans hold their own. We’re not talking classics. This denim is highly ornamented, coated, dyed, or otherwise creatively embellished. Jeans were smothered in coral at Dolce & Gabbana and festooned with feathers and appliqués at Roberto Cavalli. Balenciaga’s Pierpaolo Piccioli brought a couture twist to the subject by cutting denim on the bias.
Youthquake
The season’s A-line mini dresses and moon boots were influenced by André Courrèges, while the revival of the babydoll dress evokes the 1960s model Twiggy, though of course it was the contemporary pop icon Olivia Rodrigo who jumpstarted its comeback.
Team Spirit
Prepare to pop your collar come spring. Preppy staples with athletic connotations will be in heavy rotation. At Lacoste, the classic crocodile logo was inverted on polos, while Gucci’s Demna and Dries Van Noten’s Julian Klausner gave rugbys a bougie Euro spin.
Net Gains
Designers used openwork fabrics like crochet and broderie anglaise to provide both ventilation and romance. Frothy swathes of lace that floated cloud-like around exposed skin brought a sense of texture to the idea of lightness.
That’s Showbiz
The heat of the sun was of less interest to some designers than the glare of the spotlight. Glamour writ large was the takeaway from Anthony Vaccarello’s final collection for Saint Laurent, while showgirls’ feathers and strass kicked up excitement at Erdem and Matières Fécales.
来源：颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com