拉各斯 2027 春季：Nkwo 把旧衣服做成新设计，叫它“反向零售”
Nkwo Lagos Spring 2027
Nkwo Onwuka 为拉各斯 2027 春季系列定名“Journey to Less”，灵感来自她侄子从阿姆斯特丹出发、穿越 13 国、耗时 40 天回到尼日利亚东南部村庄的公路旅行。系列核心是一套“系统”：把顾客不要的旧衣服改造成新设计与新廓形，例如把旧牛仔布再造成连衣裙与半裙、把牛仔布改造成针织感面料——她称之为“反向零售：你把旧东西寄给我们，我们把它做成新的”。部分靛蓝单品在尼日利亚本地染坑染制，西装外套被再造，格纹衬衫的灵感来自旅途中的地图系统；她同时加入了更日常的商业款，称不想只做“精致到不敢穿”的作品。新品牌徽标是一只沙漠甲虫——能在最干旱的环境里从空气中取水生存，她说“这也是我们的故事”。说明：本文为时装周秀评，正文无价格与购买入口。署名：颜如玉编辑台。
For spring 2027, Nkwo Onwuka drew inspiration from her nephew’s 40-day road trip from Amsterdam across 13 countries to her village in Southeastern Nigeria.
The collection, titled Journey to Less, “is all about systems,” said Onwuka. Her goal is to create sustainable solutions that reduce waste and shift our relationship with upcycled fashion, whether it’s a system that allows people to turn their unwanted garments into new designs and silhouettes, or an institution that allows for innovations such as reengineering denim to resemble knitwear. She calls it: “Reverse retail. You send your old things to us and we make it into something new. We’re just trying to get people to use what’s in their wardrobes instead of throwing it away and it goes to landfill,” she explained.
Throughout the collection, upcycled denim was converted into dresses and skirts; several indigo looks were produced locally in Nigeria’s dyeing pits. Blazers were repurposed, and shirts with lattice details were inspired by the mapping system used during her nephew’s travels. She also worked on introducing more commercial pieces. “We need to take it in a direction that makes sense to everyone, not just [feature] pieces that are so artisanal that you’re too scared to wear them,” she said.
Several of the pieces featured the new brand emblem. It’s a desert bug, a creature known for extracting moisture from the air and turning it into water that it uses to hydrate. “It’s living in the harshest environment, but finds a way to survive from nothing. And I feel like this is also our story,” she said.
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来源：颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com