皮肤暗沉怎么提亮？专家：先辨原因，再谈去角质、维 A 与防晒

The secret to that enviable glowing complexion might not be as elusive as you might think. Brightening dull-looking skin really only requires figuring out what is causing it and making a few tweaks in your skin routine (and maybe a visit to your favorite esthetician for a peel or laser, but more on that later).

Dull skin isn’t inherently bad or dangerous, but no one wants to look dry and tired. So whether you want ultimate shine with that glass skin look or just a natural-looking boost in radiance, consider this your ultimate guide to brightening dull skin.

What causes dull skin?

Many things can cause a dull complexion. Raquel Medina-Cleghorn, esthetician and founder of Raquel New York, lists buildup of dead skin cells on the surface, poor barrier function that leads to chronic dehydration, or even using the wrong products as common reasons for dull skin. Board-certified dermatologist and Skin of Color Society member Shauna Higgins, MD, agrees; she adds that dehydration, sun damage, impaired skin-cell turnover, uneven skin tone, and lifestyle and environmental factors such as smoking and air pollution are other causes to consider.

How do you brighten dull skin?

Dull skin can happen to any skin tone and skin type. Dr. Higgins says that those with darker skin tones may be more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, while those with underlying inflammatory conditions such as eczema may experience changes in skin texture, pigmentation, and disruption of the skin barrier, all of which can affect your natural radiance. “Ultimately, dullness is not exclusive to any one skin tone or skin type,” she says. “Identifying the underlying cause is key to addressing it.”

Exfoliate

Medina-Cleghorn says that if dullness is caused by buildup, the first thing to try is gentle exfoliation. “For some people, this could be chemical exfoliation; using alpha hydroxy acids like lactic, glycolic, or mandelic acid; or gentler options like polyhydroxy acids [such as] gluconolactone or enzymes. For a smaller subset of people, I’d recommend a physical exfoliant, like a polish or scrub,” she says. “Some skins do well with either, and less is always more here.”

She recommends products like the Neova 5-Second Daily Peel Pads or the Sofie Pavitt Face Mandelic Clearing Serum. For anyone looking for a little physical scrub, she likes the C27 Peel 27.

Look to Retinols

For long-term brightening results, Medina-Cleghorn says retinoids are key, as they will help improve pigmentation issues and skin-cell turnover. “Over time, [retinoids] will help the cells realign into flatter, tighter layers which improve light reflection,” she adds. “I always tell people to think of a shingled roof versus a tile floor; which alignment would you prefer your skin cells to have?”

Dr. Higgins agrees, but warns that retinoids can make your skin drier, which will then cause dullness. But once your skin adjusts, she says, they’re helpful not only for luminosity but for your overall skin health.

Hydrate, Hydrate, Hydrate

Speaking of dry skin, Dr. Higgins says that you should prioritize hydration and barrier repair should you realize that dryness is what’s keeping your skin from looking bright and glowing. Use a moisturizer like Paula’s Choice C5 Super Boost Face Moisturizer or Augustinus Bader The Cream.

In-Office Treatments

If you’re looking for something a bit more powerful, Medina-Cleghorn recommends a professional chemical peel to slough away dead skin cells and reveal a fresher, brighter layer underneath. “[They] are my absolute favorite,” she says. “I use the Environ Cool Peels, which come in various acids, strengths, and compositions to be extremely customizable.”

Dr. Higgins also recommends treatments such as microneedling to improve uneven texture and skin luminosity, or fractional laser resurfacing to promote collagen production and boost your skin’s radiance. She says you can also look to pigment-targeting lasers for pigmentary concerns. But no matter which treatment you go for, she recommends that those with darker skin tones go to a professional who has experience treating skin of color to minimize the risk of discoloration or other downsides.

Use SPF

You should be using SPF every day regardless, but sunscreen is especially important when seeking bright, glowing skin. Sun damage, as Medina-Cleghorn explains, will make skin look duller than normal. Consider using sunscreens like Beauty of Joseon Relief Sunscreen or La Roche-Posay Anthelios Mineral Light Fluid Sunscreen.

How do you deal with hyperpigmentation?

Dr. Higgins explains that ongoing inflammation, such as acne or underlying eczema that’s uncontrolled, may leave dark patches and hyperpigmentation. She says it’s important to treat inflammation first to prevent that. “Pigmentation comes in many forms, so finding out the type and cause of your hyperpigmentation is key to knowing how to appropriately treat it,” Medina-Cleghorn agrees.

Chemical exfoliators and retinoids can be helpful, she says. Dr Higgins recommends brightening products with ingredients such as azelaic acid, tranexamic acid, vitamin C, kojic acid, and niacinamide to brighten hyperpigmentation. She also likes hydroquinone with one caveat: it should always be used under the supervision of a dermatologist. “Strength and duration of treatment matter,” she says.

Is there anything to avoid?

Medina-Cleghorn says that some mattifying products might make you look more dull than you want them to. You’ll also want to be mindful of some sunscreen or makeup formulas that are drying, she adds, as those too can result in a dull appearance. So try to test out different formulas that will give you added hydration.

You’ll also want to be careful not to overtreat or overexfoliate your skin, says Dr. Higgins, since doing too much might compromise your skin barrier and make your skin look more dull. “Treating your skin gently is key,” adds Medina-Cleghorn.

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