Nehera 2027 春夏:度假的松弛感,底下压着一层《天鹅湖》的不安
Nehera Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear
斯洛伐克品牌 Nehera 的 2027 春夏成衣继续接着今年早些时候的两条线走:男装的『Balaton』(匈牙利的『天鹅湖』、当地热门度假地)和秋冬的芭蕾主题。品牌 CEO 解释这一季的情绪一半是夏日度假地的松弛——慢、懒、热;另一半是反差:一种危机与重生般的不安,并举了个很东欧的例子——『每当共产主义政权感到不稳时,电视上就会放柴可夫斯基的《天鹅湖》。』Vogue 秀评人 Laird Borrelli-Persson 的判断是:那层暗色其实很难从衣服上看出来。这季主体是柔软宽松的剪裁和不少漂亮连衣裙:长款背心式连衣裙透着『不在办公室』的度假感;短款里有一条鲜红色,呼应当年巴拉顿湖面上鲜艳的游泳浮具;裙摆垂着的流苏增加了空气感,而空气感正是整季的主导主题。也就是说,这是一个把沉重母题处理得非常轻的系列——概念在背景里,衣服先保证松弛好穿。署名:颜如玉编辑台。
For spring, Nehera’s Ladislav Zdút and team continued to explore the themes they introduced earlier this year in both their men’s collection (Balaton, aka the Lake of Swans, a popular vacation spot in Hungary) and fall ready-to-wear (ballet). “The mood is very relaxed on one hand, coming from the atmosphere of the summer resort—slow, lazy, hot,” the CEO explained. “But on the other hand, as a contrast, we are also [conveying] something [like] the feeling of distress, like the rebirth or crisis. For example, what is very, very interesting is that anytime the communist regimes felt somehow unstable, they put on TV Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake or something similar.”
The darker mood was difficult to discern in this easy collection which featured soft, roomy tailoring and many pretty dresses. A long tank-style evoked out-of-office vibes while shorter styles, including one in a vibrant red that referenced the bright swim inflatables from Balaton back in the day, featured dangling streamers that added a sense of airiness, which was the predominant theme of the season as a whole.
来源:颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com