万圣节最好的戏服是古董秀场造型:从喷漆裙到手工拼贴铝胸衣
The Best Halloween Costume Is an IYKYK Archival Runway Look
万圣节造型不必买现成戏服,Vogue 盘点了一条“懂的人才懂”的路:复刻古董秀场造型。低门槛版是 McQueen 喷漆裙——白床单、棕色腰带加绿黑喷漆即可;硬核版是陶艺创作者 Naomi Vizcaino 用胶带定型、灌溉管热熔胶拼贴、喷银漆复刻 McQueen 1999 年 Shaun Leane 螺旋铝胸衣;布景师 Laura Hughes 则用廉价假发片缝在外套上、配药店丝袜复刻 Margiela 2009 年假发裙。文章另举造型师直接借 2009 年 Prada 红色成衣加恶魔角扮“穿 Prada 的恶魔”,以及 Margiela 2006 胶带花朵上衣、Rick Owens 2016 人体背包等灵感。
The fashion stakes are high for Halloween, and every year, they just get higher. However, there’s often a less discovered path: dressing up as your favorite runway look. From Chanel’s rocket launch tweeds to one of Hussein Chalayan’s transformable frocks, Halloween is the perfect time to let DIY recreations run wild.
A pretty popular—and low lift—option is Shalom Harlow spinning on the platform being spray painted by two robot arms at Alexander McQueen. A white bed sheet, tan belt, and some green and black spray paint, and you’re in business. A model friend texted that she’s currently trying to convince her friends to be the sexy, lace-masked nurses from Marc Jacobs’s spring 2008 Louis Vuitton for the same reason.
Naomi Vizcaino isn’t interested in easy. Over the last week, the ceramicist and content creator has set out to recreate McQueen’s fall 1999 coiled aluminum corset, originally crafted by Shaun Leane (whose work was back on the runway at Sean McGirr’s spring 2027 swansong for the label). “I’ll always come back to Leane’s work but this year I felt like it would be fun to attempt something that I otherwise would never be able to see myself in,” she says. “I started with one of the most basic at-home sewer projects—a duct tape dress form so that the shape would fit me perfectly, to which I then hot glued rounds of irrigation tubing I found at the hardware store,” Vizcaino explains. “I installed a zipper with more glue (rather than risk damaging my machine with adhesive) and spray painted the whole bodice silver.” McQueen would likely appreciate the upstart energy.

Vizcaino putting on the finishing touches.

McQueen, fall 1999 ready-to-wear
Photo: Condé Nast ArchiveIn the same makeshift vein, set designer Laura Hughes once recreated Margiela’s spring 2009 wig dress with some cheap hairpieces sewn to a jacket, drugstore tights, and a pair of heels. “I wanted something niche that the real heads would appreciate, but could be visually striking even to those who didn’t get the reference,” says Hughes. It helped that she already had blonde hair and could save money on at least one of the wigs. Bonus points for the hairy Halloween candy bag.

A Margiela costume might be easier to recreate than you might think.

Margiela, spring 2009 ready-to-wear
Marcio MadeiraThe most ideal option, of course, is to go straight to the source. Power stylist Karla Welch paired a red Prada spring 2009 runway ensemble—you know the one: crinkled bra top, shrug, and skirt—with matching devil horns to create a literal Devil Wears Prada costume for fellow stylist Erica Cloud’s Villain-themed birthday earlier this week. Not quite a Halloween party, but you get the point. “I bought this set well over a decade ago from Sielian Vintage and honestly it was a pretty last minute costume…got my horns via Postmates from Spirit Halloween and voila,” says Welch. “Easy to be iconic when it’s the devil and you have a closet full of vintage Prada.”

Prada, spring 2009 ready-to-wear
Marcio Madeira
The Devil Wears Prada—spring 2009, to be exact.
The runways are abound with Halloween inspiration—some of the best looks that Vizcaino and Hughes have seen on others include Margiela’s spring 2006 packaging taped-flower top and a couple dressed as Rick Owens’s spring 2016 human backpack. Maybe this writer will engineer Mugler’s robot couture in the next few days. Nothing some Crisco and a trip to the hardware store can’t accomplish!
来源:颜如玉编辑台 · vogue.com