2027 春夏最被围观的十场秀：第一名不是大牌，是第一次上榜的 Matières Fécales

What makes a show pop? Where does brand heat come from? In the case of Matières Fécales, the most-viewed spring 2027 collection on Vogue Runway, it isn’t a 10-figure annual marketing budget. It isn’t celebrity endorsements either, though Rihanna’s 63-minute late arrival at the brand’s Place de la République venue in Paris this season certainly didn’t hurt. It isn’t even the 99 looks that came around designers Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran’s runway. We measure scale, i.e., how many people clicked, not the number of slides they made it through. And at number one, this is Matières Fécales’s first time on our most-viewed list.

I think the Matières Fécales show was popular because of its casting — all 99 looks were modeled by people of color — and the broader point they were making about putting pluralism back into fashion. “Our mission is to make it soulful,” Bhaskaran said, “and hopefully present the humanity behind fashion that is sometimes lost in these hyper-perfect products and hyper-perfect shows. Everyone is chasing belonging: the difference between the 1% and the 99% is opportunity.” The 400 extras who walked Moschino’s Milan runway (not in our rankings this season, but an important show nonetheless) did something similar. It reminded us that clothes and the designers who make them, as reviewer Tiziana Cardini put it, “have to negotiate with the force of real life.”

Three other names weren't on last season’s list. Burberry’s Daniel Lee and Victoria Beckham have landed in the top 10 before, but Jil Sander’s Simone Bellotti is a first-timer. His wonky minimalism — he likes to add something that’s “a bit wrong in a way,” he said — edged out much louder shows, and all sorts of brands with significantly more name recognition and bigger ad spends. How to understand that kind of success? The Vogue Runway team had some answers: at a time when people want to look individual, he whispers, not shouts. It could also say something about our current moment — things feel both very normal (we all go to work, pay our bills) and like something is subtly “off” (you name it). Or maybe it’s because his clothes have soul.